Hi everyone. Nate here. Long time no blog entry. Enjoy.
Another great country and one of our favorite stops on this journey was Japan. We knew there would be wonders to behold and a culture as plentiful as any we have seen, so we were genuinely excited as we floated closer to this great island nation.
As with China, we had two cities to stop at in Japan, with two days to spend at each port. Our first stop was
Kobe, Japan. What a beautiful city! Kobe was by far one of our favorite ports to visit. The city was large and modern, with plenty of people and traffic. But as you strolled down the main roads, even where the hustle and bustle is, there’s a mysterious quietness to the whole place. Maybe it’s the bounty of trees and bushes that parallel each street, absorbing noise and refreshing the air. Or perhaps it was the abundance of electrical or hybrid vehicles that created the pleasant hum of the city that never seemed to amplify above a whisper. Or maybe, quite simply, the amazing people of Japan can operate in normal, everyday life without the need to be exuberant, loud, or attention grabbing. Whatever the reason, I have never felt so at ease and comfortable while walking through such a large city as Kobe.
On the day we pulled into port, Sarah (along with all of the other staff) had to work passport duty. For anyone that was wondering, Japan’s immigration/tourist process is among the most thorough in the world (it’s usually
compared to America’s customs practices). So, that meant hours of lines, passport stamping, and baggage checks before everyone was off the ship, and Sarah could not leave her shift until that happened. While she worked, I decided to leave first thing in the morning. I was among the first small group off the ship, and it still took me over an hour to depart...but depart I finally did, and the city was mine. With the few hours I had to myself before Sarah could join me, I decided to scout out the city in advance, so later Sarah and I would know exactly where we wanted to go and when. With only two days in port, time is of the essence, and getting a lay of the area ahead of time would save us valuable minutes, or hours, later. There was a monorail station at the port with downtown destinations, but I opted to walk. I’m glad I did, because downtown was only about 15 minutes from the port, and after days at sea, much needed exercise is welcomed. Eventually, I found myself on Flower Road (or Flower Load, as it’s marked on the local street maps). This is main street Kobe.
My first priority was to find a 7-11. This is because Japanese culture is largely cash based, and the concept of a credit card is not the same as in America. Plastic does not rule in Japan. For that reason, ATMs are plentiful, but only accept Japanese bank cards. It’s quite an adventure to find a machine that will give you yen from an American account. However, there are always 7-11s, and in Japan, 7-11s are not only convenience marts, but act as branches for a local bank (that accepts American cards as well). That’s right; 7-11s are considered banks in Japan. You want to get a Slurpee and open a checking account at the same time? No problem. So I found a 7-11 right away, pulled out some cash and was on my way to exploring my first Japanese city.
Aside from general sight seeing, the next item to cross off my to-do list was to find a little place to eat that Bill and Heather told us about. It is a place called Kujira no Andy (roughly translated means Andy the Whale). You see, Bill and Heather, colleagues from UCSC, went on Semester at Sea last semester and have been unbelievably kind enough to send us a page from their scrapbook of each port we have visited. We have found amazing things with this information, so when our “Bill and Heather’s Guide to Kobe” came in the mail, and the recommendation for Kujira no Andy was on it, we knew we had to find it, which, after quite a search,
I did find. I lost myself at the base of the mountain in town, in a small alley in a neighborhood (not a business area, but a real neighborhood) looking for a restaurant. Just when I thought this couldn't be the right location, I found it, and right away I knew it was everything Bill and Heather said it would be. The first thing I noticed was that NO tourists would be able to find this place. This was a local’s only kind of joint, which is always good find. I went in to the small, one counter eatery that can seat seven people at the most, attached to a house most definitely being lived in, and met Yoshihiro, the owner. I presented him with a letter from Bill and Heather, ordered an Asahi beer, and we talked all about the current trip we were on. Then his wife Hitomi showed up, pulled out the album of customer photos they have from years back, and found Bill and Heather’s photo taken at the very same counter. We laughed and a photo was taken of me with my beer, and already I didn’t want to leave. But it was getting close to Sarah’s quitting time, and I told them that I would be bringing her back that very night. So I left to make the trek back to the ship.
After four hours of passport duty to clear the ship (the longest it has taken to clear our ship at any port, by far) I grabbed Sarah. I told her I found Andy’s, and we decided to set out and make our way back there while meandering through Kobe on the way. As we walked back down Flower Road, we stopped by the local park where an eternal flame was burning for those lost during the tragic earthquake in 1995; saw a large clock made entirely out of flowers that is run solely off of solar energy; visited a magnificent temple that, although in the heart of the city, was one of the most peaceful settings I had seen on this voyage. And finally, we found our way back to Kujira no Andy for what became an unforgettable night.




We entered Andy's and there was Yoshihiro and Hitomi, waiting for us. Aside from us, there were only two other people at the counter. They were children who spoke perfect English as well as Japanese. One was a 7 year old boy named Aska and his 12 year old sister Ali. We came to find out that their father is and Australian native and their mother is a Japanese local who teaches English. They live in the neighborhood that Andy's is located in and frequent the restaurant daily. They became a great asset that night with the help they provided with the occasional translating required in the conversations between Yoshihiro, Hitomi and us.
That night at Andy’s was amazing. We talked about Semester at Sea, Bill and Heather, America, Japan, and countless other things. We ordered food, which was cooked at the kitchen right behind the counter. Aside from th
e food ordered, Yoshihiro also prepared several “extra” dishes for us, including Firefly Squid (very small, fresh squid you eat whole), various vegetable and rice dishes, our main courses (Sarah ordered pasta, and I got some beef), ice cream for dessert and several drinks, including my first time drinking sake. We stayed for hours, and at one point, Aska and Ali's mother and grandfather showed up and joined us. Aska, the 7 year old boy, even made fried rice for us. You see, he’s learning to be a chef, and since he frequents the restaurant so much, Yoshihiro has taken him under his wing and giving him access to his kitchen, where Aska regularly cooks for his family, and now us, his first real customers (by the way, his fried rice was amazing!). It was a great time, and one of the coolest cultural moments we’ve experienced on this whole trip. It felt more like we were guests in someone’s house then customers at a restaurant. Yoshihiro and Hitomi were the nicest people, and have invited to show us around next time we are in Kobe for a longer stay. Also, when we finally left for the night, Aska, the little boy, followed us down the alley, asking for us to stay. Many, many thanks to Bill and Heather for the recommendation! If we hadn’t visited Andy’s, I feel like this whole voyage would have been incomplete.




The next day in Kobe, Sarah, Shirl, Jeanetta, Lisa, Laury and I found a great hibachi style restaurant and tried real Kobe beef. It was good, but not worth the outrageous prices they charge for it. We then navigated the local train system and went to Kyoto, about 45 minutes away to visit Nijo castle where the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. The blossoms were amazing, and the castle and its palace was cool. The palace, built in the 1600’s, had wooden floors called nightingale floors that squeaked as you walked on it so no assassin’s (a.k.a. NINJAS!!!) could sneak around and kill the emperor.




All together, Kobe was an amazing city, and provided some of our most memorable experiences. We will definitely visit Kobe again. I will be posting our Yokohama entry today as well.
Thanks for reading. Peace.